The Book of Ruth

Varied route. First half is slab aiding with primarily beak tips in closed corner systems then transitions at the obvious middle tier to vertical aiding up a beautiful rightward arching roof system and then various corner systems to reach the summit. More holes than necessary were placed and I'm ashamed of that fact, but interesting and fun climbing still to be had on the route. I would not suggest this as your first route on this wall as others are better, but a worthy route after completing Epidèmia de Opiáceos and Jericho Wall. Many of the lower pitches will go free at what I assume will be a moderate grade (P2 will be the crux of attempting to free the lower pitches) and there's obvious and moderate freeclimbing possibilities up the left side of the headwall (that will connect with the anchor at the top of pitch 8) for those that are looking to create a freeclimbing variation without the need to put in anchor bolts. Feel free to contact me for more info.

P1 5.10r or A2 - 180'

4th class ramp to obvious corner. Can be freed with very thin flared placements every 25' or with beaks (Prob easier than 5.10, what do I know?)

P2 A3 100'

Thin nailing to obvious roof, followed by hooking, beaks and rivets

P3 A2 165'

Go right from anchors to weakness on the face, overcome first roof, then up to second roof traversing left followed by a corner system and mantel to anchors. Fun pitch

P4 A2+ 150'

Continue up on thin and hollow beak placements to easier terrain to the anchors.

P5 5th class scrambling 135'

Take 5.7 corner (2 moves) to 4th class scramble up to headwall or avoid 5.7 by 5th class scrambling to the left on the face

P6 A2+ 145'

Move belay up and left to obvious small tree where the arch starts. follow arch on thin beaking, cams, hooks, and rivets. At end of arch reach out right to gain anchors. Stellar pitch.

P7 A2 130'

Continue up right facing corner until reaching rivet ladder that trends left. Some tricky placements and hooking gains a small platform and then dirty digging to reach the ledge and anchors. Huge ledge to the right of belay is sloping.

P8 A2 (full 60m rope stretcher)

Move left and up from anchors, reach the roof and tension right and continue until able to reach around the roof to right facing corner system. Follow system until obvious crack trends rightward until reaching a piton to penji back left and follow until end of corner system. Wear sleeves to protect your arms from the shrubbery in the right facing corner.

P9 5.8 130'

Move up and right from anchors to easy but dirty flake to corner/groove for 60' followed by 70' of 4th class scrambling to tree with rap rings. Unrope and wander around to see the awesome upper tier of this area that doesn't have any development that I'm aware of.

Weather considerations:

Avalanche issues for all of Jericho Wall during the winter.

The upper section of this route is almost never in the sun, with the lower sections going into shade in the early afternoon. Large snow cone may be present at the base early in the season, but with the start being 15-20' up a 4th class buttress, this does not prevent one from starting the route in these conditions providing you're comfortable traversing the cone.

Starts 20' to the right of Epidèmia de Opiáceos.

20 Beaks:

6ea #1

8ea #2

6ea #3

6 LAs

2ea #1-3

4 angles

2ea ½", ⅝"

Cams:

3ea of 0.3" - 0.6"

4ea of 0.6" - 1.25"

3ea of 1.25" - 2.5"

2ea of 2.5" - 4.5"

Offset cams:

2ea

Nuts:

1 set

Hooks:

1ea

Rivet Hangers:

11

Rap the Route to Descend:

All belays are bolted belays with 2 stainless ⅜" bolts setup for rapping (except for the summit and P5 middle tier, which are tree belays).