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Peak Mountain 3

Reaching for Reality

FA The Terminator
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Description

This route provides a good warm-up for the routes in Hell Cave. The last section is the shared crack that many routes climb through. This reverses the upper section of the route Oz. The Helix of the North side of the canyon.

Begin on Reaching for Razors, after clipping the third bolt of Razors, head up and right. Clip a bolt for Oz and continue heading right. At this point, the route crosses Jitterbug Boy. Clip the bolt on Jitterbug Boy before it pulls the roof (a two-foot sling would be nice, there was a very long fixed draw here at one point). A few moves down and to the right will bring you to the crack in the cave. Clip another Oz bolt, just left of the dinner plate hold on Burning and Melting, and then do the last two bolts of Burning, Melting, and Wasatch Reality. The route ends in the double kneebar at the terminus of the roof crack.

Very fun climbing, a little bit of everything. Steeper than it looks.

Location

Start on Reaching for Razors, head right at the third bolt, reverse Oz, and finish on the Hell Cave roof crack.

Protection

8 bolts to one bolt anchor.