- Edit (TBD)
Description
Surf and Turf aka Vaca Desesperada involves some tricky mantels to access a gradually widening splitter.
Climb past tricky moves and many bolts to access the flare below the splitter. Swim up and climb fingers until your feet reach the top of the flare.
Off-fingers locks with bad feet lead to finger stacks and eventually thin hands.
Placing gear is challenging along with the guarantee that everyone will find a bad size.
Finish the climb with crisp glorious #1 camalots which widen to hands at the anchor.
Location
On the right side past Fatted Calf but before Have a Cow (the super splitter off-width).
Protection
Five closely spaced bolts lead to a splitter that widens from thin fingers to thin hands. A #3 camalot protect the pod between the face climbing and the splitter.
My redpoint rack was 1 each .4 &.5 C4, 1x 1.5 friend(.75 C4 works too), 2x #1 camalot, 1x #3 camalot.
For the onsight/first go I would bring doubles or more in the .5 and .75 size. A #2 camalot also goes in near the top, if you don't want to run it out to the anchor.
Routes in Sacred Cow Wall
- 14Surf and Turf5.12+Trad