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Peak Mountain 3

Medusa

FA Rick Smith
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Description

Medusa splits the middle of the orange face just right of the arete on the east side of the Grotto. It is probably the most impressive line in the Grotto, and the climbing is incredible. Rick Smith was a prolific and talented route-developer, and he said that he thought this was one of the best routes he put up. It is sustained, extremely thin and delicate climbing from the time you leave the ledge to when you clip the chains. There is a distinct crux in the middle, but there are a lot of 5.12 moves on the route. This deserves a lot more traffic.

Location

Climb the KSR route to the base of the face above; belay at the anchor on the left arete or at the enormous slack like bolt at the base of the dihedral/crack of Rolling Brownout.

Protection

14QDs.