Northeast Buttress

The Northeast Buttress of North Cotter is an incredible feature when viewed on the approach. A gently rising, razor sharp ridge comes out of the Sixty Lakes Basin to meet the summit of North Cotter. North Cotter is the lower summit of Mt. Cotter. Climb to a notch directly below the main arete by staying to the north side of the initial ridge (4th class). From here the route is pretty straight forward. Follow cracks and amazing knobs slightly right of the aretes edge to the summit. I feel this route is seldom climbed so be aware of loose rock and a bit of flakiness.

The crux of this climb may very well be the descent. When I climbed it I really wanted to traverse to Mount Cotter and found myself soloing down 5.6 and loose 5th to the notch between the two formations. the safest option is probably to go down the way you came.

To reach this route, you got to be willing to walk pretty far. First over Kearsarge Pass, then over Glenn pass, to Rae lakes, and finally up and over into 60 lakes Basin. Here you will find incredible solitude, pristine wilderness, and perhaps swarms of mosquitos trying to eat you. I sure did.

Standard Alpine rack