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Peak Mountain 3

Offwidth/chimney

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Description

Blocky climbing at the base leads to a short, clean, arching offwidth, into which it is difficult to gain entry. Past the offwidth, to the right, a chimney leads to the top. This route is described and pictured by Beverly (2006:200-201) as Route #2. It is also apparently route #1 in the Chen/Wehner on-line guide. Jackson (2006) doesn't list any routes this far left on the crag (although he has a photo covering this area on page 186).

Location

Near the far left (western) end of the south face of the Big E. The route ascends the left wall of a large right-facing corner. Go left of the pinon tree that marks the bottom of the Dihedral climb. Even though we're on the south face of the Big E, this climb gets early PM shade thanks to the big left wall.

Protection

At least one #6 Friend or C4 will be needed, or the equivalent. Multiples of biggies would probably be desirable so you don't have to walk up your first big placement. Build a gear anchor on top. Beverly says to TR it, but it might be difficult to toprope because it traverses so much.