Schaeffer's Delight

Immediately above the spot where the Frogland approach trail reaches the base of the cliff is a clean varnished face. The right side of this face has an obvious S-shaped crack. Schaeffer's Delight starts just to the left of the S-shaped crack and follows magnificent 5.7 face-climbing past several bolts and a few small cam placements to a good belay ledge with a bush on it. You can rappel from this ledge with two ropes, as the first ascent party did in 1984. George Urioste returned a few years ago and extended the route.The second pitch face climbs straight above the bush (5.7) to easier ground 15 feet up. Continue up and right to a smooth low-angle dihedral and belay near its top. The third pitch goes up, then left and climbs a prominent, square corner (5.8) to the top.At this point, you are on a huge platform on the east ridge of Whiskey Peak. There is another possible pitch above, but loose rock adds a certain element of danger. The best way off is to scramble into the brushy gully just to the left and climb it for about 50 yards to join the normal Whiskey Peak descent gully.

Six or seven bolts on the first pitch; trad gear above.