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Peak Mountain 3

The Seven Dwarfs

FA Jim Graham
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Originally rated 5.5 in the 1986 (2nd ed.) Webster guide; the whole cliff was omitted from his 3rd edition (1996).  Classic example of "Old School" ratings. Most today give it between "solid 5.7+" and 5.8.  

START: About 20-25 ft right of the "twin birch trees" of the "Somebody's Got to Do It" corner.  

P1 -  Climb up mossy dike line, stepping back left  (5.6R?) to first bolt;  then up the short crack (#3 Camalot useful) passing a tree root.  Up, then reach left to clip the first bolt (which I think is actually on Harvest Moon), make a move up the corner, then a big step left onto the face. Head up the face, there's at least 1 more bolt. Continue a few feet beyond the pine tree to a 2 ring anchor.  110ft, 5.7+ / 5.8,   5.6R   

P2-   Climb up to the overhang on the right, with the flake and crack, over this (gear) to a bolt.  Up the face (gear and 1-2 more bolts) trending left to a 2 bolt anchor.  80 ft 5.7  [see NOTE] 

Webster (1986) lists a P3:  150 ft  5.3 that appears to not be very clean at present (2018) "Wander up broken slabs to a short headwall and left facing corner." 

NOTE:  From the P1 belay, stepping left and going up the clean, white face with several bolts is P2 of Harvest Moon, 5.10a, to the same shared anchor with Seven Dwarves.

Protection

Std Rack,  4 bolts. Crack takes #3 cam that can be "walked up", although a #2 could be placed.