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Peak Mountain 3

Mom's Meatloaf

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Description

Hand crack to the left of Dirty Boulevard and to the right of Dime Store Mystery. Starts with a committing step across from a large boulder to a good flake. Then the crux is gaining the crack from here. These cruxy early moves can be protected by stick clipping a #3 BD cam into the crack above. Climb up the slightly right leaning well protected hand crack to a bolt at the top of the crack. Finish on dirty slab to a set of bolted anchors about ten feet above the bolt or continue to the top for the full experience.

Descent: Can rappel or lower from bolted anchors with rap rings or can walk off the northwest gully.

Location

Walk up the main trail and when you get to the rock go left. When you are standing at the base of Dragon's breath, a bolted line at the southwest corner, look to the left to a gully with some logs shoved in it. Climb the logs and ascend the slab above. The route is a slightly right leaning hand crack across from a large boulder with about a 4 foot gap between.

Protection

One bolt. #2 BD cams very useful. #3 for the start and some mid-size cams. Small cams and passive pro not as helpful. One bolt. Bolted anchors.