Highwaymen

Highwaymen is a fantastic and demanding climb high on the southeast corner of Mt. Wilson. The low pitch count belies the adventurous nature of the route; an involved approach and sustained climbing make for a rewarding endeavor. The route has excellent climbing throughout, though the middle two pitches lack the high quality rock of the first and last pitches. It enjoys morning sun even in the dead of winter.

P1 (5.11b, 180’): Start on the right edge of the Outlaw Wall below a long, left-facing corner. Tricky climbing past two bolts leads to a tips crack in the corner that quickly widens. Layback and jam your way through 40-45 feet of fingers and off-fingers to a good rest. An enjoyable wide section takes you to an anchor at a stance.

P2 (5.11b, 120’): Bust out your desert tower skills for this mandatory grovel pitch. Continue up the corner through jumbled sandy cracks, staying right where the crack splits. Wiggle up a short wide section and clip a bolt left of the crack before moving right under a small roof. Continue up and right through a second awkward and strenuous roof (crux) before the chains pop into view at a stance.

P3 (5.11c, 180’): Engaging climbing immediately off the belay: Clip two bolts and unlock a cryptic sequence, first climbing the right wall of the corner then transitioning left. Continue up the corner and crack system using abundant and sometimes fragile face holds and gear of all sizes. When the crack ends, face climb past three bolts to an anchor on a comfortable ledge.

P4 (5.11b, 120’): Rock-Paper-Scissors your partner for who gets to lead this exciting, mostly bolt-protected pitch. Move right off the belay before moving back left to clip a reachy second bolt. Climb a thin, left-arcing seam past a crux to a stance below a steep section. A final crux is followed by glory jugs (hard-to-spot bolt here) that lead to an anchor at the top of the wall.

Descent: Summit Mt. Wilson and walk off or rappel the route with two 60m ropes. Though not strictly necessary, clipping the bolt as a directional when rapping P2 may be helpful.

Highwaymen climbs the right edge of the Outlaw Wall - A narrow strip of beautiful brown rock high on the southeast corner of Mt. Wilson. This wall is just down and around the corner to the left of the Basin Wall and can be approached by the gully above the Mass Extinction Block. Allow 2:00 to 2:30 for the approach from the First Creek trailhead.

2x Green C3 (0.4 inches) to #2 Camalot. 1x #3 Camalot. 1x #4 Camalot (optional). Wires. 8x Draws/Slings. 2x 60m Ropes.

Note: Several extra 0.5 Camalots (4 in total) for P1 and an extra thin cam for P3 are strongly recommended!