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Peak Mountain 3

In Between (aka Right Dihedral)

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Description

This is a great two pitch variation "In Between" the

Hesse-Ferguson

and the

Culp-Bossier

. Start with the Hesse-Ferguson for its first long pitch.

  1. From the grassy ledge, step right into a white, right-facing dihedral and climb to its top below a large roof band. Turn the roof on the left side, then make a spicey traverse above the roof's lip approximately 50 feet to the right and belay around an arete in a hanging, right-facing corner. This pitch is sustained 5.8, and the traverse offers one place for protection (which used to have a #2.5 Friend fixed under a flake about midway through). The quality of the traverse is superb, but it takes a good head and some route-finding to link the correct edges and nubbins. (5.8 S, 165 feet).

  2. Climb the beautiful, hanging, right-facing corner above you, with awesome stemming and fingerlocks, and take the pitch to the large terrace at mid-height on the wall. (5.9, 140 feet).

Finish with any combination of routes on the upper wall.

Protection

Standard rack. Double ropes may be useful to eliminate rope-drag on the traverse. One might also consider belaying the traverse as a separate pitch, but this is not absolutely necessary.