Left Chimney

We thought we were repeating the line of Hardwick and Goforth, but later we noticed Larry had documented that their 5.9 route was to climber's right of Southwest Cracks. We entertain the possibility that this was a typo and Larry meant to write climber's left, because our route seemed like a relatively straightforward 5.9 experience. If not, then where is the Hardwick/Goforth line? Old guard, please chime in!

Rack up at the notch just south of the spire and traverse 60 feet left to a gear belay the base of the route.

Pitch 1 (5.9+ PG-13, 100'): Shared with Southwest Cracks, this is a heady lead. Climb thin soft cracks then traverse left on mud blobs to another thin soft crack. Follow this up to and through a bulge in the limestone band. Gear belay on the limestone ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.7 R, 120'): Head left up the short offwidth, then walk into a hidden chimney. Run it out to the top of the pillar, then continue 20 feet up and left into a nice surprise belay alcove. Gear belay takes all sizes.

Pitch 3 (5.8, 100'): Crank out of the alcove roof and jog up easy ground to the overhanging summit block. Crimp traverse left (sudden exposure!) to a loose crack on the north face. Gear belay on summit. "Wait, where's the anchor?!"

Descent: Gulp. Make an insecure 30-foot 5.8 downclimb off the south side of the overhanging summit block. Pretty dicey for the follower. Rappel 180 feet from a slung manzanita, walk 50 feet right along the limestone ledge, then rappel 100 feet from a two-bolt anchor.

Shares the same first pitch with Southwest Cracks before branching off left.

Triple set cams to 1" + double set cams to 3" optional sliders and other micro gear Two 60m ropes