Underhill Couloir

AKA Undertaker Couloir.

Class 4 minus the summit monolith (5.9). Route of peak's first ascent.

Approach via the Palisade Glacier. Cross the bergschrund (gets bigger as the season progresses). Climb the righthand couloir, passing a chockstone on the right - continue up a chimney to the notch between North Palisade and Thunderbolt Peak. There are two ways from here; either traverse ledges on the south side then up a gully to the summit ridge. Or (better) climb directly up the ridge from the notch to the summit monolith.

Better when there's snow in the couloir - the couloir is horribly loose when free of snow.

Descend the route -- (rap and downclimb-- there are fixed pins along the right-side of the gully at each rap station).

North facing couloir between North Palisade and Thunderbolt Peak.

Solo class 4 - ice-axe and possibly crampons. Summit monolith (5.9) may require a length of rope.