Krishna Cutoff

This is an interesting beginner+ alpine route with a little rock, a little snow, a little ice, some exposure, and a cool summit. It was my partner Adam's second alpine route after

Dragon's Tail Couloir

.

This route was first done in June, 1997, by a Colorado Mountain Club group led by SummitPoster Nelson, who generously gave me permission to crib text and photos. Although he originally intended to climb Hallett via Tyndall Glacier, slide activity on the southern exposure of Flattop made that a less attractive idea. Instead, he chose to ascend a moderate-looking gully located on Hallett's north face. Among his group was an energetic Colorado State University student from India, named Krishna, who charged up the first recorded ascent of this route, lending it his name.

THE ROUTE: climb several hundred feet up the gully. This eventually peters out at a crumbly cliff band. Fortunately there is a convenient right-traversing ramp allowing you to reach another gully that climbs directly to the summit. This ramp passes above more crumbly cliffs, but it is wide, and if the snow is firm, it presents no difficulties.

This second gully is perhaps 50 feet wide at first. About halfway to the summit it suddenly shrinks into a narrow inset notch. This 100-200 foot long notch is the crux of the climb and offered the first ascensionists a mix of firm-to-unconsolidated snow, patches of ice, and awkward Class 3 or 4 rock moves.

Continue directly to the summit through steep mixed terrain, or bail left onto the obvious snow slopes and up to the ridge, and then follow the ridge to the summit.

Start from Bear Lake trailhead. At the first trail junction, bear left towards Nymph, Dream, and Emerald Lakes. The trail ends at Emerald Lake. Pass Emerald Lake on its south side. Negotiate the one mile and 1,800 feet of elevation gain through the gorge to the base of Tyndall Glacier. Follow a broad ramp to the left (south) that heads directly below the North Face of Hallett Peak.

Early in the season the ramp will be filled with snow. Climb the ramp, then find the easiest path through a series of ramps and gullies. The final obstacle before you reach Tyndall Glacier's snout is the rubble of a terminal moraine. Just before you reach this moraine, look for a series of parallel gullies heading up the north face of Hallett Peak. The gully on the east (left) side of the group is slightly wider than the others, less steep, and filled with more snow. The route begins there.

Ice axe, crampons, and light alpine rack with several long slings. A couple of shorty ice screws and a picket might come in handy. Wear your helmet.