- Edit (TBD)
Forbidden Fruit
Description
P1) Seam to flake past a bolt under a left facing corner. Diagonal right into a shallow chimney. Belay in a scoop on the left face beneath twin cracks. 70m 5.11c P2) Gain the ledge above the twin cracks and traverse the face (under the rap station) with a short slab crux to the base of the corner. 20m 5.10a P3) Climb the giant left facing corner you see from the road. 70m of mostly 3s and 4s. Amazing 5-star pitch. 5.11c P4) Move left from the anchor, then weave right through a short overhang and back left on the path of least resistance to a wide crack and slung horn on the ridge. 45m 5.10b
Rap with two 70s from a slung horn on top followed by three bolted stations, trending climber’s left
Protection
Singles .2 to .4, doubles .5-2, triples 3-4, single 5