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Peak Mountain 3

Eye of the Newt

FA James Fusten, Mike Wood, and Davin Lindy
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route follows the obvious crack system on the sw side of the tower and finishes in the notch between the twin summits.

The climbing is engaging and stays on solid rock for the most part. The two belays are bolted.

Pitch One - Follow a right facing corner system past a big ledge and through a fun stem-box. Continue to the base of a low-angle v-slot below a large roof. 5.10

Pitch Two - Follow the crack out and over the roof and continue to the notch passing some loose rock near the top. 5.10

Location

See map on Hell Roaring Canyon Page.

Protection

2 sets of cams to 3 Camalot with extras in the #1, #2 and #3 sizes. See comments below...

1 set of nuts

A couple long runners


Routes in The Cauldrons


  1. 1
    Eye of the Newt
    5.10
    Trad