- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1: From the starting platform, climb up and into a
crack system. Stay left of the crack/coner (5.5) and
top out on the bulge at the first anchor station (50). 6 bolts
P2: Climb a long angle, faint arete to a couple of
vertical steps. A short patina face leads to a couple
more steps and the next anchor station (5.5). 7 bolts
P3: Continue up the arete, clip a long sling on the
last bolt and top out on a platform. Move right
to the left leaning ramp/arete a follow it up and
through the slot to the summit. (5.4). 8 bolts
Can rappel the route or rappel at Bayer's anchors which are accessed further up the ridge for less chance of ropes getting caught.
Location
Park at or near Anti-Gravity Rock (two
turns in the road below Box Canyon). Cross the creek
and stay left of a huge boulder and bush-whack
north up the draw. The vegetation is thick and there
is no trail as of 4.18.09. When you near some large
boulders on your right, move right and skirt the base
of the cliff. When Heart Rock comes into view above
you, climb a shallow gully on your left to a platform
roughly 30 above the trees.
Protection
Bolts. Take long slings for the belay stations. A couple of long slings are helpful to reduce rope drag at the top of the pillar on P3.
You can do the entire route with one 60M rope. Sign the summit register!