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Peak Mountain 3

The Reckoning

FA Grant Simmons, July 2020
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Description

Great climbing and a spectacular position in the center of the Mordor Wall.  I'm proposing 5.10d for the grade but I think it will feel pretty pumpy and out there on the onsight.  Maybe harder?  Pitch 1:  Start by climbing up the third pitch of Diagonal, taking a hard right after 25’. A techy slab crux leads to some pumpy climbing to get to, and through, the roof. Get a quick shake, aim for a high a horizontal, and traverse right to a bolted anchor at a good stance.Pitch 2: Move right into a short corner and head up to a testy slab sequence that guards the final romp to the trees.

Location

Access the route by climbing up to the Diagonal Block and then following Diagonal through its 5.4 pitch.  Belay at the anchor on the left side of the dike.

Protection

Rack to #2, with an extra cam in the .4 - .5 range.