- Edit (TBD)
Description
A route with some excellent climbing marred only by questionable rock and mediocre movement higher up. Start on nebulous, blocky but enjoyable rock up to the first bolt. Surprisingly powerful and technical for the next 3-4 bolts, the route climbs through sloping shelves and edges to a flared finger jam/lieback sequence. After another bolt or two the climbing abruptly changes to vague wallowing over two distinct, awkward bulges with somewhat loose rock and breakable holds, some large.
Location
This route is to the right of the .11a arete (The Torcher). Like that route, the top is marred by vague, stumbly climbing over increasingly loose rock; wearing a helmet while belaying is a good rule of thumb on the left side of the cliff.
Protection
Bolts (8-10) and fixed lowering hardware. Helmet for belayer and possibly climber.