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Peak Mountain 3

Dreams to Screams

FA Ben Williams, 2004
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A tough route on the wall. Pull the awkward start of Traverse of My Dreams, heading immediately up and left, then back right, through crimpy, technical terrain. Watch for loose rock. Catch the classic chossy Missouri chert band rest and prepare for the meat of the climb. Thin, demanding climbing on the bottom of the bulge leads to a series of sloping crimps and a few pockets as the wall turns slabby. The stone above the rest is absolutely stellar.

Location

Start on Traverse of my dreams, finish direct. 

Protection

7 or 8 bolts to clip anchor.