North Couloir Variation

This is a variation of the North Couloir route. Follow instructions for the North Couloir until you get to the notch atop the L-shaped couloir, before you would start the traverse.

From the notch, when facing Mt Sill, head directly up the rock face for three pitches which bring you right up to the summit.

In the Secor guide he says, "Climb straight up from the start of the traverse for five short pitches." We did it in three with a 60 meter.

We did it as follows:

From the low point in the notch between Mt Sill and Apex Peak face Mt Sill and move up to a short right facing corner at the base of the rock and belay from here.

P1: Head up and out of the corner and continue scrambling up low angle rock, traverse left into a chimney and go up this until it ends. Belay on the ledge to the right. (55m/5th)

P2: A shorter pitch up and a bit left on fun, blocky granite. (30m/4th)

P3: From here you can either traverse left for 20-30 feet and then up (we did this to avoid some snow but isn't necessary) or just head up and left - both courses meet a little ways up. Continue with more of the same - fun, blocky scrambling to the top. (We belayed just below the summit, maybe 15 feet, because we ran out of rope, it was no more than 4th class from here. However, you can easy extend the 2nd pith a bit further and this won't be an issue.) (50m/4th-5th)

NOTE: There's more than one way to do this variation of the North Couloir route. In spring (we did it in spring of a big snow year) you'll have some easy mixed climbing and in late summer the traverse on pitch 3 wouldn't make any sense as it would most likely be a pure rock climb.

DESCENT: You can either rappel the route or descend the regular North Couloir route.

From the notch between Mt Sill and Apex Peak face Mt Sill directly. The rock face in front of you is your route.

Ice axe, crampons and helmet. Rock: Light alpine rack and rope (or solo)