Fool’s Gold

Fool’s Gold is a classic extension to

Smarmacus Maximus

. It climbs an OK 5.12 to a beautiful and hard panel of immaculate blue and gold stone high off the deck. From the chains of

Smarmacus...

, continue up easily for a few bolts to a stance under a small roof. Prepare for battle, and continue into the crux sequence, a brilliant few moves on some of the smallest, coolest holds in Rifle, ending with a large move to a jug. Get a quick shake, and bust a final Fight Or Flight-esque boulder problem on the final overhanging arete. The last bolt on this line is off to the left, but a broken hold renders the left sequence much more difficult. The fall from the top of the arete is big but surely safe, but it’s recommended to not fall on the victory mantel as the second-to-last bolt is 15 feet below.

This route is an incredible change of pace from other 5.14s nearby and should not be missed. Consider it mandatory to get on it if there are draws already on the extension.

Locate this route by finding the impressive 40 foot panel of streaked stone above

Smarmacus Maximus

on the right side of Arsenal.

Bolts and some longer draws for

Smarmacus...

.