Tuscarora

Tuscarora is a brilliant route that climbs the left side of the huge brown buttress separating the Black Arch Wall from the walls containing Black Orpheus. The route takes a system of corners through a large roof and then tackles a very difficult finger crack. It is south facing and offers nice, sunny climbing – perfect for a clear winter day. Approach as for Black Orpheus, but head left across the slabs (may require some exposed easy 5th class) and away from Black Orpheus to reach an indistinct weakness below the left side of the towering buttress above. You may arrive at a small, body-sized cave that is just left of the line and just to the right of a narrow ridge of rock that separates the Black Orpheus side of the amphitheater from the There and Back Again side. About 20' below this cave is a nice ledge and a single bolt which is a good place to begin.

P1: Depending on where you start, begin climbing up a corner and onto broken rock, working out left then back right underneath a steep wall, then continue just right of a vegetated right-facing corner to a nice ledge with a bolted anchor. 5.5-5.8.

P2: Climb up interesting features passing two bolts to a bolted anchor on a sloping ledge directly below the large roof. 5.10b, 100’.

P3: Pass the roof via jamming, stems, and underclings – good pro and bolts protect. Belay at a bolted anchor. A wild, awesome, and exposed pitch. 5.11, 100’.

P4: Step right from the belay and climb friable rock before moving back left and continuing up interesting face features, ultimately arriving at a stance at the base of a very thin crack. This crack, which is slightly overhanging and tips-sized, is the crux. Difficult for the grade, (smaller fingers will have an easier go of it, but be prepared for pain) this ain’t no Rainbow Wall 5.12. Some hollow rock but great movement and position. Small cams and a few bolts protect as the difficulty eases slightly on the way to a bolted anchor in the middle of outer space. Yowsers! 5.12c, 100’.

Rap the route with a single 70m cord.

1 each black Alien/00 Tcu to #2 Camalot. Extra red C3's (0.3 Camalots and green Aliens are just a little too big where you want them). Wires. Draws. One 70m rope.