- Edit (TBD)
Description
Same start as You Scream, but aim for the crack on the right side of the hanging buttress. The pale rock at the base of this wall is quite soft, so use the crack. Dump both #5 cams before you get to the roof, placing the second high and deep. Delicate face climbing up a blunt arete takes you to the roof. Plug some solid gear to protect the roof, and get ready to jam/pull hard. The final move, which puts the anchors at chest level, should not be missed. Anchors were installed a bit low to ensure solid bolt placements. Movement is varied, interesting, and I daresay physical in spots. I rated it PG-13 to get people's attention, but there are options for solid pro throughout...if you manage to place it. Leading this route might not be a good choice if you're new to trad or pushing your grade.Please use your own draws to toprope.
Location
The first route you encounter at the crag. Shares a start with I Scream and You Scream.
Protection
Single rack from 0.5 to #3, two #5s and a sling or two. Extra #1 highly recommended. Adding a #4 or another #3 to this mix will allow you to sew up the dirty slot, but the moves there are easy. Two bolt anchor.