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Peak Mountain 3

Chockstone Chimney

FA Bill Sewrey, Dave Olson 1965
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

When you tire of the lines, first-timers and Instagram obsessed climbers repeating probably one of the most often climbed route/formation in the Superstitions wander around the base and take the alternate route to the Hands summit.  The start is behind the mini-detached formation, The Dorsil.  Enter semi-solid chimney, climb past two chockstones and belay on a nice ledge with two bolts, 5.6.  Pitch 2 is fairly unprotected for several feet until you gain a crack system, trends up and right.  The final several feet turn vertical and 5.6.

**By rappeling off the north side of The Hand a 60-meter rope can be used to get down but this will eliminate all the photogenic, airy and "audaciously bold" like picture opportunities.

Location

From the start of the Razor's Edge route, walk around to the backside of the Hand formation and locate obvious chimney, behind The Dorsil. From the top of pitch one, a few of the bolts on the Razor's Edge can be jealously eyed.

Protection

Standard rack to #5, nuts are useful. One piton and two old belay bolts on top of pitch 1.


Routes in The Hand