Midsummer Dome, South Face Center

This route is so good it needs to be on this web site. It was put up in the 1970's and graded 5.9 - this will give you an idea of what has occurred in terms of grade creep over the years- it is truly stout for the grade.

Approach - in the center of the South Face of Midsummer dome is a left facing dihedral system to the right of large black water streaks. A diagonal ramp leads up towards the first pitch which is at the top of this ramp.

Approach Pitch - 4th class - I suggest you belay the upper portion of the ramp as it is now grass choked and exposed.

Pitch 1 5.8- Just left of a dirty overhanging corner two cracks converge in a point about 10-12 feet up. the right crack is fat/knee locks, the left is a seam with grass in it. Climb this until you can get gear in the top right of the overhanger corner then proceed up and then traverse right to a ledge/belay.

Optional pitch 1 - 5.9 stout: To the left of the first pitch is a stunning left facing corner that flares at the top - climb this then traverse across flakes to the belay.

Pitch 2 - 5.9 stout: Pick a path essentially straight up from the belay past the least dirty sections to then climb a well featured face, eventually traversing left to a shallow, steep right facing flake. Climb this strenuous lieback flake then step right to a belay ledge.

Pitch 3 - 5.6: Climb up and left over flakes/small ledges until you eventually intersect the main left facing dihedrals.

Pitch 4 - 5.9 stout: Climb up through an offwidth and an overhanging section to the base of a clean corner. Climb it.

Pitch 5 - climb up easy terrain to a tree covered ledge top belay. Exit left and up.

Approach - in the center of the South Face of Midsummer dome is a left facing dihedral system to the right of large black water streaks. A diagonal ramp leads up towards the first pitch which is at the top of this ramp.

Standard alpine rack (camming units very useful).