- Edit (TBD)
Corner the Market, Lose the Planet
Description
Don't be fooled by the 3-star rating in the guidebook, this thing is some "grade A" choss wrangling.
Boulder up past 1 bolt on decomposing flakes to access what appears from the ground to be a nice handcrack in a corner. Make the discovery that it's in fact a thin, shallow, flaring, grainy slot and then commit to crumbling edges on the face to the right. Whine, whimper, curse, and pray your way up the corner to where you can make a couple of grainy friction moves out right to a thank-god bolt. One more committing face move gets you to lower-angled terrain and the anchor.
It's probably best for your belayer to stand a little off to the side to avoid the inevitable rain of grain that will be coming off, and in the event that you blow it and rip all of your marginal gear, someone will still be alive to go get the coroner.
Kind of "fun" in a sick and twisted way, this might eventually clean up with another 100 ascents or so.
Location
Located down a corridor immediately east of Earthday Dome, walk past the route "Greenpeace and Greenbacks" and just keep going. Look on the right for a dihedral with 1 bolt at the bottom. Lower or rappel off of fixed cold shuts.
Protection
2 Bolts, Gear to 2 inches. Fixed anchor at top.
Routes in Earthday and Munge Domes
- 5Corner the Market, Lose the Planet5.8Trad