- Edit (TBD)
Jughead
Description
Crux is the start/the second ledge, regardless of which start you choose (see below). Two (three?) possible starts (see photo). Direct would likely bump this to 5.10/5.10+ (thoughts?). Bouldering (V?) the cave/roof would push this way up and would add a significant chance of decking. Direct would likely require a heel hook onto the second ledge with marginal hands above. Traverse start is a touch spicy but fun. Once below the master point, it's a slightly slabby, juggy climb to 5-6' below the top. Top out is mostly slopers intermixed at a lot of moss/lichen but easily doable. Watch out for the thorny plants at the top out.
Location
Between Slippery When Wet and Padua wall crack. Start ~8' to the south of the chimney, next to the log (see photo; unless attempting to boulder the cave/roof). Direct would be straight up from the north edge of the first ledge. Traverse starts 5-6' to the south onto the second ledge. Spoiler alert/beta tip on the traverse: scrunch down to get around the initial overhanging bit when moving left/north.
Protection
TR; anchor to the solid tree at the top