Drain The Lake

• 5.10b

Head straight up a well protected splitter crack at about 5.9 (first move is the toughest) until it peters out. Step out right into an easy crack system that leads to a big ledge. Through the easy part keep your eye out for a cool 'hole' hold on the face to the right. When you reach the ledge place some good gear and continue straight up underneath a small slabby roof. Gain the undercling with pasted feet, place a small cam (yellow BD .2) under the roof, and get your left foot over the roof onto a good foot at the edge of the slab. Pull a balance-y mantle move standing up on your left foot then make 3 or 4 easier moves on an unprotected face to a jug. A fall on the mantle would take you darn close to the ledge, and a fall from the face would almost certainly give you a good bounce on the ledge before the rope caught. That being said, if you've got the skills for the mantle, you shouldn't have a problem with the face.

• 5.9

Climb the same way as the normal route up to the ledge but then avoid the mantle by climbing to the left of the roof through an easy crack (5.6 or 7). A nice way to setup the top rope if you wanna lead it, but the mantle looks scary.

• 5.10c/d

Start to the right of the normal crack and go up and right through a couple balancy and strong moves. Basically a v2/3 boulder problem for 30 feet. In low water it can be an intimidating lead with sparse gear for the first 10-15 feet. In higher water the ground fall would get slowed down by the water, but you'd probably still hit the rocks. When the lake is at its highest the first moves will likely be underwater. After the first moves continue up through the mantle for a nice, exciting line.

If walking, take the Rubicon Trail. You cannot access this climb by walking the shoreline from Lester Beach, even in low water. Take the Rubicon Trail through the cliffs and past the wooden bridge for another minute or two until you arrive at a prominent point. At this point the trail turns up to the right and there is a rock tower below the trail on the lake side. It's a beautiful place and hard to miss.

If you hike down the hill towards the lake from here, you will be in between the two towers for the highline. You can walk down to the bottom of this gulley to reach the base of this climb and Tessie's Terror. To access the top of "Drain the Lake" climb to the top of the northern high-line tower. It's somewhat exposed on the top so be careful.

Once you're on the top do a 10ft down climb to the left (north) into a small notch with 2 bolts and thick quick links. These were originally installed to back up the high line. You can use these anchors to rappel 15ft down the face, where you will find the chain anchors for the climb. Re-rig onto this anchor for the top rope to minimize the damage to the vegetation on the ledge.

If you want to lead it walk between the towers to the waters edge and scramble to the base. Only possible in low water. In high water, belay from your paddle board/kayak/boat.

+1000 gnar points if you can pull the rope and land the whole thing on your paddlebaord.

+2000 for the inside of a kayak

-100 if the rope lands in the water

-1000 if you land in the water

Cams and nuts

Anchors are chains with mussys