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Peak Mountain 3

Desperate (Left)

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Description

This is the first listed variant of route #12 in the online guide.

Start up a broken crack system to a bulging block. Go around the right side, then aim left to gain a stance below a pair of converging cracks. Follow the flaring crack/seam on the right to the top.

Desperate (Left) is indicated as an option in the online guide, and by Beverly (2006:208) and Jackson (2006:189-190). It's not clear from the guide books if the hand crack immediately to the left (Kor's Dog) is on or off. The online guide describes Desperate (Left) as following the "left-trending crack system to the top" (italics added), so I'd argue that both cracks are on-route, since they're only ~14 inches apart at the top.

Location

On the west-facing cliff. Start on the cracked face left of Gymnast/Upper Kor's.

Protection

Standard trad rack to 2.5". Gear anchor on top.