Monkey Wrench

This is the first crack system right of

Screw

on the Northwest face of the Valley Massif. This route consists mostly of excellent 5.8/5.9 hands with the 5.10a flare in between for added excitement. This single pitch leads to the same belay ledge as for

Screw

.

Heel and Toe

describes the first section of this route as moderate offwidth, but it's actually moderate hands.

The handcrack ascends from the ground about 30 feet to a horizontal crack / ledge. From the ledge, a right-leaning flare heads up past a bush where it becomes a handcrack. The flare is the crux, and

Heel and Toe

describes it as hard to protect, although it is not. A #5 Camalot would protect it best, though a flaring #4 Camalot works.

Cams from 0.5" to 6.0", with doubles in the 0.75"-3.0" range, and mid-range stoppers.

Per

Kurtz

: there is a set of rappel rings about 15 feet climber's right of the top of this route that you can't see until you traverse the ledge. A 70m rope gets you down with plenty to spare. I am not sure, but I think a 60m might reach.