Snake Charmer

One of my favorite routes at Parks starts out with a bang: a crux roof right off the ground, easily protected with a horizontally placed cam after tiptoeing up the short slab start. From there, intricate but not terribly difficult vertical climbing leads to a pair of beefy hangers (no rings) above Elf Toes. Requires 70m rope, or top out on The Pharaoh (5.10d). 

Hike past the 5.9 wall as for Anthony, but continue on the main trail for another 30'. Veer left and scramble up to the small plateau underneath the small starting roof.

Gear to 2" (3" to protect the start and belayer). Twin hanger anchor.