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Peak Mountain 3

The Coming

FA Tom Higgins and Bob Kamps 6/68
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route climbs an obvious, somewhat vegetated right facing corner for two pitches before striking out for another two pitches on the poorly protected face above.

Pitch 1 - a very short pitch to get to the base of the corner. There are several variations from easier to harder.

Pitch 2 - climb the right facing corner to a very small ledge and belay(5.9).

Pitch 3 - continue up the corner(5.9) then surmount the roof at the top and belay on a ledge just above.

Pitch 4 - wander up the face following the line of least resistance to a belay below a small roof(5.6). Supposedly there is a bolt up and right, but it can be hard to find.

Pitch 5 - continue up the face to the top.

Location

This route is a prominent right facing corner in the center of Medlicott Dome. It is just in front of the Sticks and Stones formation.

The descent is a walk-off.

Protection

Bring a rack of stoppers and cams to 3".