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MapWall of Early Morning Fright
Description
The old guidebook says, "Sustained, awkward and exposed. An excellent route." I have to agree with all three.
P1: Climb the crack until you reach a two bolt belay on a small alcove before a short chimney/squeeze (5.9).
P2: Climb the squeeze, then head up and left until you're on a large ledge with an alcove (optional belay). Chimney out of the alcove and follow the path of least resistance to the large boulder on top that's wrapped in old ropes.
Location
It follows the obvious large crack on the SE face of the spire, to the right of duet.
Protection
Standard rack up to #5 camalot
Routes in Chimney Spire
- 5Wall of Early Morning Fright5.9Trad