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Peak Mountain 3

Where the Sky Hangs

FA Chris Hirsch, Braden Herbst, Taylor Lais, 2014 (Ground-up)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

First climbed this thinking it was already established but undocumented, because there was a couple slung horns that I had noticed for a few years. After passing the upper sling, and no bolts in sight, I quickly realized the previous climbers must've bailed. Finished it up anyways, while getting some sparse gear and desperately slinging horns to calm the nerves. Came back the next year to add a couple bolts but still kept it adventurous.

1)5.6 70' Begin in chimney at the bottom of the gully that separates Crocket Tor from The Fist. Stem up then exit to the right on knobby face. Sling your belay off a small spire just below the crescent arete.

2)5.8+ 130' Climb down from the belay until possible to step across on to ramp leading to the arete. Stem to the left in order to protect with gear. First bolt protects a small bulge pull. Continue up the huge jugs and keep an eye out for possible gear placements. I remember a couple of slung horns, a yellow C3, and an unconventional #4. Second bolt protects the crux, then it eases off to the top.

Location

When viewed from the parking lot. This line takes the subtle arching arete on the far right (N) side of Crocket Tor. This may climb past the Conn's Petty Point summit. Must have one 80m rope to NSR back into the gully to the N.

Protection

2 bolts Single rack red C3-#4 Natural anchors


Routes in Crocket Tor


  1. 2
    Where the Sky Hangs
    5.8+
    Trad