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Peak Mountain 3

Yuji's Crack

FA Yuji Hirayama
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start laying on dust and guano with your hands behind a choke stone. Pull on and make a series of tight hands or ring lock moves. After pulling a cruxy sequence, either climb the crackhouse tunel line in reverse and top out as per the Birth Canal (the enduro version) or keep climbing strait and finish as per The Crackhouse (the direct version.) Both versions go at about v6/7.

I find the first section of Yuji's Crack to be the most bouldery sequence in the Crackhouse warranting a grade higher than Fat Crack, but not quite as high as The Crackhouse.

Location

Facing into the large cave where The Crackhouse tops out find the crack to the right (20ft or so) from the start of Fat Crack. Yuji's crack is the only other crack, besides Fat Crack, that goes all the way into the back of the large cave.

Protection

Pads and a spotter.