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MapWorkshop Orgy (upper Var. of Atlantis)
Description
This is a difficult, wildly exposed alternative to the final pitch of Atlantis. (See p. 310 in Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.)
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Climb the first three pitches of Atlantis.
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From the third belay, in the large dihedral, face climb left to the highly exposed arete (1 bolt).
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Climb directly up the arete (5.9) past a horizontal crack, and over the bulge (5.12a) to the top (2 bolts, 1 or 2 medium to small cams for horizontal crack).
The crux is immediately above the horizontal crack and is exceptionally well protected for a climb of this grade, with a clipped bolt above waist height.
Protection
Protection is same as for Atlantis.
Routes in Inferno - Atlantis Area
- 12Workshop Orgy (upper Var. of Atlantis)5.12aTrad