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Peak Mountain 3

Apricot Jam

FA 1973 - Bob Rotert, Tom McMillan
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: Crux starts down low with a right leaning finger crack/boulder problem. Probably a bit more like solid 5.10 with easy pro. Move up and right then back left to old slings at a ledge under a roof (60').

P2: Climb right then up a fun corner up until it ends then find your way to a mossy ledge (50'). Variation pulls the roof at around 5.10 then up to the ledge.

P3: Follow open book corner til it ends then trend right until you find another good belay stance under a roof (100+').

P4: Move left then up to a roof and traverse to the end finding a nice diving board to belay from (~100').

Location

Locate a two-trunked tree with a white blaze marking the climbers trail. Apricot Buttress takes the first right possible and meanders along the rim trail to the descent gully. Maneuver your way to the bottom of the steep and precarious gully climbers left of the main NC Wall descent trail. Tattered fixed ropes lead down to boulder on the right (climbers left) and a right facing, overhung face. Start up the crack. Scout out the climb and the descent gully while on the rim trail.

Protection

Old core shot ropes down the gully and a standard rack up to #3.