Alex Reed Memorial Route

The Alex Reed Memorial Route lies in the center of the Colosseum Wall in the Marsupials at Smith Rock State Park. This 3 pitch beauty offers 2 stellar pitches of 5.11+/5.12- climbing and a 5.10 adventure pitch! This route is fully bolted and leads to the summit of the cliff.

P1. 5.12a Start up the first pitch pulling on OK holds leading to a large flake system. Ride the huge jugs up and right for 2 bolts and arrive at a rest before the crux. Just like any other classic at Smith, the crux of this route travels through the best rock on the route; it’s powerful, cryptic and hard. Clear the crux section and keep making moves up and right. At the end of the first pitch lies a redpoint crux. Pull those last moves and clip the first pitch anchors above.

P2. 5.11d Pitch 2 starts out up a perfect slab of volcanic tuff. Crimps, tiny edges and perfect finger pockets characterize this amazing pitch. While seemingly not having a defined crux section, this 8 bolt section of route climbs consistent with the grade through every move. A must do pitch if climbing this route!

P3. 5.10 Pitch 3 is the summit pitch that leads to the top of the cliff. After climbing the amazing stone on pitch 2, prepare to deal with some crumbly stuff on pitch 3. While not the best climbing of the route, this pitch does lead up and left to the summit of the cliff. After reaching the top of the Colosseum Wall, take in a perfect view of Smith Rock and the Cascades just beyond.

This route was one of Alex’s last routes he developed with Alan Collins before his untimely passing. Unfortunately Alex never got to send this amazing line. I feel honored to have been able to fill those shoes and help establish this great route with Alan. Thank you Alex for everything you’ve done at Smith Rock.

Colosseum Wall, Marsupials

P1: 12 bolts

P2: 8 bolts

P3: 10 bolts

Fixed anchors