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Peak Mountain 3

Captain's Crack (Exotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.)

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Description

Another hidden gem at Double Upper. You can do this as one long pitch but I think it's better as two.

Pitch 1 runs up and slightly right on easy slabs, passing a few bolts (with optional gear in between) then past a short tricky steeper spot to get to a two-bolt belay/rap anchor.

Pitch 2 moves up steeper ground past two bolts to an overlap, then up the left-facing bottomless corner. Then breaking right up easy ground to the spacious, pleasant ledge. The view from here is superb. Two raps with a single 60m rope will get you back down, via the first pitch anchor.

Location

About 30 feet right of Sling the Horn, on the mid-right side of the main face. Look carefully for two bolts.

Protection

some bolts, a few small-medium cams and nuts for the second pitch, a few single-length runners.


Routes in Main Face