We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Lost Arrow: Southeast Face

FA 1950 via rope toss and tyrolian Dave Bernays & Stanley Smith, FFA unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I did this years ago using the Mellor's guidebook, so forgive if details are hazy. Look it up in the new "Lawyer-Hass" book, but I remember it being a worthwhile climb. The crux, if I recall correctly, used small wire nuts for pro. I put this in as a 5.8 since that's it's listing in the current book, but my recollection is it might have been a bit easier, or I might have been climbing very well that day.There were (are?) no bolts on top. I remember I tied a large loop of rope (or long sling) around the whole top for the belay “tie in“ at the top.We descended as follows: The second ties the end of the rope to a tree, such that the rope will run as straight as possible from the tree to the top of the spire. Then he/she ties into the middle of the rope with a fig-8 and double locking biners. When both climbers are on top, both untie from the rope (so I guess a long sling is best for the tie-in) and the leader's end of the rope is dropped down the back side of the spire until the rope is taught with the tree. Then the climbers rap single-strand off the back-side. (Hint- With an "ATC-type device" if you double up on the biners you get more friction when you rap single strand.)

Location

There's a fine diagram on page 272 of the 2nd edition "Lawyer-Hass" book.Take the path towards the Spider's Web. About 400-500 ft in take the right branch. We managed to hit the "False Lost Arrow" first, (a very pleasant climb)  then we circled left to the "true" Lost Arrow. The 5.8 route is on the "south" face, facing towards the Northway. 

Protection

Std Rack....small wire nuts for thin stuff