Devil's Spiral Variation

This climb is a variation to the traditional Devil's Thumb

Spiral Route

, and because the climbing is so nice through the final moves, it deserves its own description.

From the notch north of the Devil's Thumb, begin climbing north, north-east from the notch as per the Devil's

Spiral Route

. After 40 feet, when you effectively reach a ramp band that spirals along the east face of the thumb (the

Spiral Route

continues this way), head straight up to the summit for approximately 60-70 feet following crack systems the whole way.

20 feet from the summit block proper, you will encounter three choices to the summit. We took what I wagered as technically the easiest line, straight up a 5.5-5.6 hand crack which diagonals up and left. The foot work is great, and the crux protects with pieces ranging from 0.75--1.5 inches (I used a hex here).

Although the crux is relatively short, the line is direct, aesthetic, and generates very little rope drag. It should be done in 1 pitch from the notch. Moreover, it allows the leader to watch the second all the way to the summit block.

DESCENT: Rappel from slings around the summit block. One 60 meter rope is required here. Bring a 4-6 foot sling to back the old ones up.

Arrive at the notch north of the Devil's Thumb as described in the

Spiral Route

. We climbed the Class 4 gully to the north of the Thumb in 1 pitch; then we downclimbed Class 3/4 to the notch for the second pitch.

A small rack is required. I used mainly small to mid-sized nuts. Through the crux, I placed a BD #8 hex and 1.5 inch (approximately) Metolius cam.