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Peak Mountain 3

The Red Blende.

FA Logan Wetherell, Greg Orton, October 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Very fun route with everything you could want in a Callahans multipitch; lots of slab, laybacks, deep chimney, fist jams, and neat sedimentary geology!Pitch 1: Rappel off same anchor on top of cliff/below just south of the logging landing as Pinot Grief, start located 20 ft to north/climbers right of Pinot Grief.

Rappel 2 pitches to bottom, start with either easier rounded ramp to left (5.8) , or with slabby near vertical face to first bolt (5.10+) at the obvious horizontal sandstone layer. Move up and into the large dish, powering up gingerly to the first crux and vertical face (5.9). Search for any small edge and find the eroded pocket from a mudstone rip-up clast for your right foot and high step with your left, while mantling in the dishes using limited friction (5.11-), excellent protection. Can also aide this section if desperate. Continue up steep blank slab, using "pinky" mantles and downward-sloping friction pockets with a final dynamic highstep into a shallow pocket (5.11-). Contue up easier climbing to first anchor. 8 bolts.

Pitch 2: move left and up shallow dishes and small finger ramp, followed by slab to well-defined ledge (5.9+). Continue up to the large ramp using the finger crack with laybacks and friction up to base of the chimney sandwiched between the sandstone blocks (5.9), admiring the exposed mudstone clasts at the bottom of the large block on the right that were ripped up in a marine turbidity current, 45 million years ago. Jam your body into the chimney and squirm your way up and onto the face, moving in and out onto the block and to the second set of anchors (5.8?). A backpack makes this section much more difficult and smaller people will have an easier time. 7 bolts.

Pitch 3: Veer slight left and into the corner of the ramp, then straight up through friction moves onto a large ledge (5.7). Move slightly right and up into the crack system. Use fist jams and work way to top of crack onto face and summit anchor (5.9) 6 bolts.

Total 55 meters.

Location

Park at the top of the logging landing and walk down and slightly south toward several old stumps. Anchors will be on your right on an exposed rock face. Currently two expansion bolts for first rappel but glue-in bolts coming soon. Veer right while rappelling, bolts for Pinot Grief will be on your left. 

Protection

Bolts