Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct

APPROACH: Follow directions towards Road to Lhasa, but cut across the woods to a descending ramp with fixed rope (passing the start of What's Up Yankee's "ugly" corner) and make a 4-5 ft descent down a slab, then hike up and left 20-25 ft gaining the ledge at the base of Birthday Brushings and 25-30 ft left, the start of Lucky Charms. [See Topo of base area of this part of the cliff posted to Lucky Charms]START- On a ledge about 40 feet left of the black corner of "What's Up Yankee?", or about 50-60 feet right of, and about 30 ft higher than, the start of "Pillars of Dickulese". There’s a small maple tree about 15-20 ft up the climb. (See photo, and/or Topo, of the LEFT Side Area.)DESCRIPTION: Very nice, varied climbing. The first 30-40 ft of this section of the cliff is much like that of the Bonsai-Sub-Slab, in that it is steep enough to not be "just friction slab". The "Direct" variation on P1 has moves similar to those of Cruise Control & Perfect Wave.P1- START at the left end of the "Lucky Charms Ledge", by a clump of trees. In 2020 there was a 12ft maple about 15-20 ft up, and a piton sticking out about 30-35 ft up.(Photo) Climb up to the piton (Small-to-Med. cam backs up) then up to a higher horizontal crack. Per the FA, move up and right (Var#1) to the obvious left-facing flake for protection, then diagonal back left to a gear belay in an often-wet pocket 6 ft below the small pine tree. 80-90 ft   The F.A. party rated this pitch 5.7R, but I would give it 5.5-5.6 PG. Don't miss the really neat wire nut placement in the "hole" above the tree. (photo)Variation#1 "Lucky Charms Direct"- Above the piton, climb directly up the slab, past 2 bolts, maybe 5.7 / 5.7+ right of the bolts [left-hand clips], slightly harder left directly over the first bolt, to the belay. [bolt, back-up with gear]   Rather than belay here, you can also move up and right to the bolted belay of Birthday Brushings. The 3rd bolt and Tricams in holes provide protection for this easy stretch . Finish on P2 of "Birthday" or rap from its P1 anchor with a single 70m, or double ropes.P2 - (As per the FA) Step left from the “pocket” belay [Var#2] and climb up to the trees. This is extremely close to the "Pillars" 2nd pitch, if not the same. "Pillars" has one protection bolt on its P2.Variation#2 "Direct continuation" - Move right 6-8 ft from the belay at the small pine tree (bolt and/ or solution pocket on the left takes a Tri-Cam, as does another on the right a bit higher**) and then straight up (pin driven down into a poor flake about 1/2 way up) to the trees. Exit moves brushed in 2014. 120-130 ft 5.3-5.4 R/X May be wet. Descent - Rap "Pillars" from the large pine tree with TWO 2-rope raps, or two raps with a single rope 70 Meter down "Birthday Brushings" (about 40+/- ft climber's-right of the large pine of "Pillars".) It is possible (but not recommended) to rap the lower rap of Birthday Brushings with a single 60m, but you must swing 20-25 ft right and land at a multi-trunked tree.

Normal rack, small wire for the "hole". [See photo of "Neat hole..."] TriCams for P2 Variation