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Peak Mountain 3

Orangutan Roof

FA Mark Tuttle, Ron Skelton 1990
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Another sweet trad challenge along the base of Voyager.

Head up the chimney with an awkward move around a chockstone. Get in some good gear then fire the layback moves around the roof and into the hanging corner above. The corner offers excellent and casual climbing until thinning and steepening. Again, get some good (and thin) gear and bust a big move to get past a blank section and then romp up to the anchor.

Location

Left end of Voyager. Start in a chimney in a big corner. Continuing up the chimney is Marmot Crack (5.8). 20 feet up, look for a roof to undercling out. Obvious feature.

Protection

Standard to 3" with a tiny cam (grey metolious/purple c3) or nuts to protect upper crux. Extra finger size will be nice for the bulk of the climbing

Anchor is original 2 bolts and could use some work, though one is 3/8". Bring tat at the very least

Sorry, didn't have bolt kit with me