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Peak Mountain 3

Dakota

FA Tommy Caldwell, 1995
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Reach up to a sizable jug horn, right off the ground to begin. Either stick clip or go-go-gadget clipping arm to prevent a ground fall. The first few bolts of climbing is low angle, and very technical, not to mention that a number of foot holds (and hand holds) are disintegrating. However, a few fun moves through this section get you to a restful stance and the rock becomes far better. Follow a faded seem through ultra technical movement, clipping bolts and placing a small nut towards the top. The seem eventually opens up and jugs, slopers lead to the chains.

This route is a technicians dream line; sequential, demanding and beta-intensive. The crux is cryptic, to say the least. It was previously considered 13a (by Tommy), but a couple holds have broken since and definitely warrants a capital B.

Location

Right side of

Renaissance Wall

as you approach it. To the left of Hooligan (13c).

Protection

16 quickdraws and bring a couple small nuts.