Slot Nose

This is the rightmost route on the west side of Shady Rock. Bruce Morris's guidebook has a good topo. Crux is just below the first bolt; a fairly tricky mantle. Climb left from the first bolt, up 5.4 rock, then ascend the eponymous "slot" just below the anchor. An arm-bar may be useful here.

Variation

: From the first bolt, climb left and ascend the obvious arete to the anchor. Probably goes about 5.9. It's tricky to clip the bolt when leading this variation.

Two bolts on route, two-bolt anchor. Warning: one bolt has a rappel ring. Nobody likes to rap from one bolt -- can someone put some new hardware up there? I equalized the rig with a biner, but someone took it.

Protection update: There are two rappel rings, not one. (4/24/2016)