West Ridge of the Ogre: Ogre Steps

A surprisingly consistent route with solid rock by Willard Peak standards broken up in two longer sections. The lower tier had the best climbing highlighting a dihedral pitch, and an arete followed by a good hand and fist crack. This section showed no evidence of prior ascents, but with many options for climbing, it is hard to imagine the broader ridge not having been previously climbed. 3 Star Climbing

The upper section featured primarily face climbing with the occasional loose rock and has been previously been climbed by an unknown party or parties. 2 Star Climbing

Pitch 1: Starting around 100' north of the ridge's crest, climb easy face (5.5) past a notch and a larger ledge to a crack leading to a small roof/overlap. Climb this around the right (better climbing) or left (easier climbing) to a small ledge with a dihederal leading out the left side of the ledge. Around 150' total 5.7.

Alternatively, a good looking crack is found 50' right of this start with a small crack in an inverted stepped dihederal. This would rejoin the original pitch 1 at the larger ledge, but may require breaking the pitch into two pitches.

Pitch 2: begin in the dihederal. continue climbing straight up with solid but blocky climbing. Easier climb may be found to the right, but the climbing did not appear to be as high quality. Belay on a ledge underneath a roof. 150' 5.7

Pitch 3: On the left side of the ledge, climb the sharp arete to the left edge of the roof. This section was unprotected for 20' but might be able to be protected with a KB or birdbeak for those willing to add to the route. Continue on disconnected cracks and face climbing to a small overlap/roof; traverse left then up the 2-3" handcrack. A little face climbing will bring you to a belay around the top of the "Pride Rock Step." This is the best pitch of the climb. Alternatively, one could climb a pitch right of the roof up unaesthetic bushy and block terrain, but why would you do that.  5.8 PG-13 150+'

At this point, take out the baboon and newborn lion cub to show the world. You can keep you pack lighter by leaving the evil uncle lion at home. If you failed to bring these essential items, just take a shot of whiskey.

Move the belay 60' down pride rock to the upper face. This is 4th class or easy 5th. Depending upon your comfort level, it could be possible to down belay or down lead. You could also set up a rappel but would need to bring materials to build an anchor.

Pitch 4: Start in the crack 10' left of the main arete. leave this crack after the first bush and head up face hold and broken crack systems to a belay behind a large feature on the right resembling a tombstone around 10' right of the large chimney. There is a little bit more lose rock on this section than previous pitches, with a section of 20-30' of unprotected face climbing about 2/3 of the way up and an older angle piton underneath a block around 90' up. 150' or so. 5.7 PG-13

Pitch 5: continue on ledges and face climbing up and left to where you can climb across the top of the chimney. continue upwards towards the crest of the step. There is a large flake feature towards the end of the pitch with loose flakes on the top of it that appears solid as you climb to it. Avoid this feature. Set up a belay on a ledge just past this feature. 150' 5.6 or 5.7

Pitch 6: climb up to the top of the step and continue up the next step to the top. 5.3 80'

From here you can put on your approach shoes and scramble along the crest for several hundred feet of 4th class which includes some downclimbing. Staying on the crest proper is much easier than finding ways around features even when the crest appear improbable.

Around a half hour of hiking up the ridge and hiking trail will bring you back to your car.

The Ogre is the southernmost and smallest of the three Willard "Spires." This formation lies on the ridge just North of the Willard Peak summit. Access is best done by driving up the road starting in Mantua to Inspiration Point. High clearance vehicles are recommended, but an adventurous Subaru driver could make it, and my stock truck has never left 2wd after 4 times up there. This road is very popular with UTVs. The last 2-3 miles of road is closed from November 15- July 15 to motorized vehicles. Bring a mountain bike for early season ascents.

From the parking lot, take the hiking trail South staying on the lower trail at the split 1/4 mile from the parking lot. From the top of the ridge connecting to the Ogre, hike down the ridge to a grouping of trees before the first cliff band. If you want, stash a quart of water and an Old English 800 for the hike out that you won't have to carry on the climb.

Hike down the larger gully to the North towards the chute in the center. Third class downclimbing gets you through the initial steep section on the South side of the chute. Continue down the gully with one 4th class downclimbing section, passing the north face and ridges of the Ogre and two old abandoned tires. After the second tire, a red ridge rises on the South side with solid rock. Climb this (4th class to 5.2), and hike directly South under a small rock outcropping and up the hill continuing south to the start of the route. 90-120 minutes on the almost all downhill "approach."

Standard rack to 3"; optional newborn lion cub And baboon.