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Peak Mountain 3

Strategic Defense

FA Dave Bingham & Mark Defournoux, June 1986
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Description

In the guidebook, Dave Bingham asks, "the best face climb in the City?"... find out for yourself! A slabby crux down low & a pumpy one up higher with an amazing variety of movement in a truly spectacular location.

Location

The route is just left of the Crack of Dung (which is the first crack left of Crack of Doom). Look for bolts on the right side of a beautiful arete.

Protection

A small stopper (#4 or #5) and blue and yellow TCUs are pretty key, unless you feel like running it out and facing big/injurious fall potential. The climb is predominantly bolted. Chain anchors on top. Careful lowering, it's a long one!