Zambezi

Zambezi features a beautiful thin crack, high on the left side of Mickey Mouse Wall.

P1. Begin by climbing the first pitch of

Perversion

, an excellent, thin, RF corner. At the large ledge, about 25m up, traverse far to the right to begin the second pitch of

Perversion

, but cut back left after just 5m. Follow a narrow ledge left past a few trees, and then hop up to a broad ledge below a clean, blank LF corner. 5.9, 35m. This pitch zigs and zags, so if you're placing a lot of pro, maybe break it into two.

P2. This is what you came for. Climb the aforementioned clean, blank, LF corner with no pro (5.9 R) for a few meters to a good small placement (RP or 00 C3). Make one more move to gain a jug and better gear. Above the corner, move up and left across a slab to a shallow roof (5.9 R/X). Stretch above the roof to clip a modern bolt (phew!), and then make a harder slab move up and right to the base of the obvious thin splitter. Climb this splitter, with a powerful and technical crux where it angles left. The crux involves reaching and passing a bomber hand-jam pod (and placing gear while your hand fills the pod!).

Once on easier terrain, follow the crack up to a broken ledgy area. You'll find a tree with rappel slings, and from here you can lower 35m back to the belay ledge (70m rope required!). Or scramble to the top of the wall (5.4). 5.12-, 35m (or ~50m if you continue to the top).

Descent: rap the route (a 70m rope helps). Once back at the large belay ledge below the crux pitch, scramble to climber's left along an easy flake, and then down to a lower ledge with a big tree with rap slings. Rap from here 35m to the ground.

RPs, double set of cams to #1 Camalot.